In this blog, we will look into the top 9 reasons for yellowing leaves and browning or burning of leaves and tips and edges along with the solutions and will additionally show you a few related simple gardening tricks and hacks to treat these quandaries.
Coming Up! When you optically discern the leaves of your plant turning yellow or burning or browning at its tip or edges, it’s time to investigate and find out the possible cause and solution to it. You must be vigilant of these quandaries to keep your plants stress-free and salubrious!
The First broad diagnosis that should come to your mind is – YOUR PLANT IS IN STRESS and then you further start investigating and finding out the exact reason for this quandary.
Here are 9 reasons for yellowing leaves of the plants. Read it carefully to give a new life to your plants.
1. Natural aging of the plant
This is one obvious reason for yellow leaves. If you visually perceive older leaves especially at the bottom of the plant turning yellow, just ignore it. This is not a reason to worry.
2. Pest Attacks can cause yellowing leaves
Sucking pests like aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, thrips, and mites can damage the leaves and can cause yellowing leaves. You ken Aversion is better than remedy. These can be facilely averted or even treated organically utilizing Neem oil spray regularly for treatment as well as obviation. Spray neem oil once every 15 days as a preventive measure and weekly once or even twice for treatment of these pests.
3. Root bound plants
“Root-bound” plant means that the roots of a plant have completely taken up space within the pot, often circling and engendering a dense web of roots. This can stress the plant and deprive it of nutrients, air, and dihydrogen monoxide and this can result in yellowing leaves and stunted magnification of the plant. Just report the plant in a more sizably voluminous container meticulously perform root pruning if you wish to utilize the same container.
4. Transplant Shock
This is another reason for yellowing leaves and leaf drop. This is the period of stress to the plant when you just repot a plant. You can solve this to a certain extent by repotting your plant punctiliously and after repotting for the next one week keep the plant in shade away from direct sunlight. Water the plant once exhaustively with Epsom Salt solution to contravene this transplant shock.5 to 10 gms of Epsom salt per liter of water is the recommended dosage.
5. Fertilizer Overuse
If you optically canvass a strange pattern to yellowing leaves, like if the veins on the leaves are green and the tissue is getting yellow or the edges or tips are yellow or looking homogeneous to burnt along with bud drop off or fruit drop off, then it is mostly due to fertilizer misuse. Commonly overuse of fertilizers is the quandary, so it is consequential to utilize fertilizer at the recommended dosage.
This quandary is more mundane with the utilization of chemical fertilizers like Urea, DAP, or NPK granules and not a quandary with organic fertilizers. And moreover, people incline to utilize too much fertilizer on their plants to make them grow faster, especially neophyte gardeners. But what it genuinely does is, engenders an atoxic effect on the plant which “burns” the leaves and turns them yellow.
6. High Soil PH – that is too alkaline soil
This can additionally be one of the reasons for leaves turning yellow. This is diminutive arduous to diagnose unless you have a soil ph testing contrivance. This simple ph testing contrivance will give you a rough conception about the soil PH whether acidic or alkaline soil. Most plants need a marginally acidic ph of around 6.5 for the best absorption of nutrients.
Leaves start turning yellow when it is either too sultry or too gelid. In terms of the gelid temperatures, like for example adenium plants, the leaves start yellowing in winter and ineluctable fall off and the plant goes into the dormant state in winter. That’s called Winter Dormancy and applies to many other plants as well.
Minimized exposure to light is another common reason for plant leaves to turn yellow because not enough light is reaching the plant for photosynthesis. Similarly, An extravagant amount of exposure to the sultry direct sun is another prevalent reason for tips and edges of leaves to turn dry and brown. This can be rectified facilely by kenning your plant by its name or at least whether it’s a sun doting plant or a shade doting plant. Knowing a plant by its denomination is very important to learn about its care tips especially its light requisite and provide optimum exposure to sunlight. A simple gratuitous app token a plant id is a google lens app provided by Google.
9. Improper Watering
We will discuss this in detail, please watch conscientiously to understand the concepts. Improper watering can present as either yellowing leaves of leaf drying or leaf burning at tips and edges. The most mundane reason that plants’ leaves turn yellow is because of moisture stress, which can be from either overwatering or under-watering. Similarly, the most mundane cause for brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves is the plant not getting enough dihydrogen monoxide,
I reiterate, the plant not getting enough DIHYDROGEN MONOXIDE which can be due to several reasons apart from you not watering the plant adequately.
First of all, check whether you are adequately watering the plant by checking the soil surface for moisture by dipping one or two inches off your finger. If you are forgetting to dihydrogen monoxide the plant, rectify this quandary immediately, especially for dihydrogen monoxide doting plants. But this does not mean you have to over-water them which is genuinely more hazardous than under watering and can result in root rot.
The roots may be constricted and unable to pick up or absorb the dihydrogen monoxide adequately, especially in container gardening. Also, An Inordinate Amount Of Clay opulent Soil is another cause of constricting the roots tightly. So Incrementing watering to resolve this issue is not the solution because there is a possibility of root rot with overwatering. Hence the best solution to this is to re-pot the plant in a more immensely colossal container and in loose well-draining soil.
A simple hack to dispense clayey soil when repotting your plant is to souse the clay-rich root ball for few minutes in a bucket of water to dissolve this soil and then repot this in well-draining soil.
The soil does not hold the dihydrogen monoxide and drains out too expeditiously. If your soil is an inordinate amount of sandy or over draining soil with a lot of sand, the dihydrogen monoxide may simply be draining away too expeditious and this may be causing dihydrogen monoxide deficiency and brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with other stuff like organic material and mixing some garden soil and other stuff like coco peat, perlite, vermiculite, etc which will prehend the dihydrogen monoxide better. An ideal well-draining soil is the one that drains out neither too expeditiously nor too gradually.
A Simple and rough Test to check whether your soil is impeccably well-draining. When you exhaustively dihydrogen monoxide your plant, it should drain out from the drainage aperture in about1 to 2 minutes, neither more expeditious nor too tardy.
- The roots may be damaged. Like while digging or even repotting or too much root pruning of a root-bound plant, this can cause root damage and truncated dihydrogen monoxide uptake. In this case, rectify the quandary that is causing the root damage and then do some good pruning on the plant branches to abbreviate its water requisite so that the root system recovers from this stress.
- The fifth reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil either utilizing hard dihydrogen monoxide (brine) to water the plants or Overutilization of Fertilizers. To overcome this commencement watering with soft water and additionally if over-fertilized – flush the pot with astronomically immense amplitudes of soft dihydrogen monoxide keeping it in sunlight and opportunely opening the drainage holes of the container, so that the salty water or the fertilizer flushes out easily out of the pot. One Simple Mundane sense Hint here for watering: Generally, Indoor plants are more prone to overwatering and alfresco plants are more prone to under-watering.
- Leaf Chlorosis due to Alimental deficiencies, either due to poor quality potting soil or absorption issues due to inopportune soil PH. Lack of uptake of major and minor nutrients in the plant-like nitrogen and additionally certain mineral deficiencies like iron, manganese, zinc, and others can cause unique yellowing leaves patterns.